TERRAIN
We’re completing two days in Hoi An, after a couple of days in the bustling city of Hue.
Our hotel here overlooks the river, and this shot is from my balcony. This is the Vietnam I envisioned, full of jungles and wetlands, and it reminds me of the Vietnam represented in “Apocalypse Now.” Today we explored the ruins at My Son, a sanctuary of the Champa kingdom dating to the 2nd century. This was a Viet culture with a strong Hindu influence. The site is a collection of delicate masonry and red brick ruins, each building tightly constructed using no mortar. This culture fired each building itself, like giant individual kilns, resulting in extremely sturdy and lasting architecture. It was fun to make our way through the jungle passes, despite 100% humidity. This is also an area of the country that saw much action during the war. You can imagine the troops hacking their way through the rain-soaked vegetation and heat for weeks on end. As a stronghold for the Viet Cong, Agent Orange was used to defoliate much of this part of the country, and heavy bombing destroyed some of the major ruins. 
THE WAY TO HUE Our visit to Hue introduced us to the imperial capital of Vietnam during its golden age. The citadel of the city houses a huge area that has been restored within its moat-encircled complex. Here the king, his huge court, many concubines and a retinue of eunuchs and mandarins constituted the high court life of Vietnam. There was a strong influence exerted by China, apparent throughout Vietnam’s version of the Forbidden City. Eleven stone gates guard an enormous area of ornate, visually stunning imperial buildings. It took us half a day to make it through most of the highlights, and the detail in ceramic, mosaic and bronze was amazing. It is said that one of the kings in the Nguyen Dynasty accumulated 300 concubines. In order to satisfy this logistical, if not biological, challenge, he was known to service seven of his ladies each night. High marks for keeping peace in the family, although this probably accounted for a progressive royal limp.
ORDER IN THE RELIGIOUS ORDER
Yesterday, we were treated to a lunch at the Dong Thien Pagoda, a Buddhist nunnery near Hue. The nuns all have shaved heads, much like Buddhist monks, and were thoroughly delightful hosts. Many were in their 20’s or late teens, and some were able to converse in English. The meal was vegetarian, and delicious. Their dedication and devotion were palpable, and they enjoyed sharing information on their religion and ancient customs.
Later that day, we visited the Duc Son Pagoda, an orphanage for about 200 kids that is supported by this tour company. We brought small gifts for the children, who were so eager to embrace us and converse in fractured English. They range in age from newborn to teen, and are under the care of another sect of Buddhist nuns. As our visit ended, they all serenaded us with children’s songs. Their lives are tough, but they are considered fortunate to be part of a life-saving enterprise. MORE OBSERVATIONS
* City traffic may be wall-to-wall bikes, scooters and taxis, but when it comes to country traffic, add agricultural transit to the mix. On the back of pedaled or motorized bikes can be found any number of homegrown products, including live animals. Yesterday, we thought all the caged chickens riding behind a scooter driver were significant, until someone came zooming by escorting a live water buffalo on the back of his bike.
Egrets are a particularly tasty treat, as this charming vendor demonstrates. They’re much more savory when served plucked, but what isn’t?* Turnabout is fair play, as we later witnessed a young girl riding a water buffalo down the road. No great surprise here, until it was clear that she was riding the animal while standing barefoot on its back.
* The Perfume River wends its way through the city of Hue. It’s so named because it carries the distinctly pleasant aroma of cinnamon, which is farmed just upriver.
* Cinnamon is also one of many aromas available in incense. A couple of days ago, we stopped at a roadside market, and there was a five-year-old rolling incense sticks. She’s been proficient since she was four, and produces about a dozen flawless products in about a minute.
* Last night we took a cooking class on how to prepare an elegant Vietnamese dinner, which we then, rather bravely, served to ourselves. Spring rolls (not as easy to assemble as it looks) and fresh tuna steak baked in banana leaves were the highlights.
* Tonight we had a free evening, and our group of seven friends enjoyed a luxurious dinner at a resort in Hoi An. Rain poured in vertical sheets for about five minutes every half hour, as colored lanterns lit by small candles drifted down the Thu Bon River near our table.
Tomorrow, we move on with a flight from Danang to Nha Trang and Cam Ranh Bay, as we continue through central Vietnam.
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