Initial Thoughts on Vietnam

After almost a week in northern Vietnam, my impressions of this country are different from what I anticipated. Here’s a land still laboring under a yoke of communism, yet capitalism thrives more vibrantly than in many former east-bloc European countries. A walk through a downtown shopping mall in Hanoi features choices from most of the same big name, high-end fashion designers you find in Paris or Berlin. American brands also compete for the Vietnam Dong, and shops and department stores don’t lack for customers. Clearly, most are international tourists, but it’s also obvious that the ying/yang of capitalism/communism coexists under new definitions here.

Culturally, the people couldn’t be more pleasant and welcoming. Smiles and laughter are everywhere, and service is always tempered by Asian formalities that reinforce courtesy and hospitality. Here are some quick perceptions:

WELCOME TO MY HOUSE
Our tour group of 15 was divided into two bodies as we went to different private homes for a home-cooked dinner and conversation. As there are seven of us who are previous travel buddies, we enjoyed dinner together with a middle class couple and their married daughter. Our hosts knew no English (except “Thank you very much!”), but their daughter, a charming young woman of 27 who was educated in London, translated. The meal, of course, was marvelous not only in its delicate cuisine, but in the fact that the wife prepared this feast in a kitchen most of us would consider a functional closet. Their home, a narrow three-story structure embedded within the alleys and narrow streets of Hanoi, was beautifully appointed with dark teak furniture. That décor satisfied not only the living room, but also their bedrooms. No cushions, mattresses or pillows; all dark hardwood elaborately carved. Consider spending the night lying flat on that appealing, if somewhat painful, bedroom furniture. The husband was a retired teacher, but I got the impression from what was not said that he was involved with governmental hierarchy in the recent past and probably during “The American War.” One particularly charming moment occurred when we had our after-dinner tea in their living room area. All of us brought small gifts from the U.S., which we hoped would represent something about ourselves. I presented a copy of the Pacific Heights “Sentimental Journey” CD. When the wife realized what it was, and recognized my photos in the liner notes, she giggled and clapped her hands with glee. Four-part a cappella harmony is alive and well in Vietnam.

AFLOAT IN DREAMLAND
We spent two days and an overnight on a junk cruise in Halong Bay. This area is part of the Gulf of Tonkin, about two hours east of Hanoi. Picture thousands of velvety-green mountain islands poking out of a misty haze, their jagged profiles seeming to pop out of nowhere. The landscape is lush and ethereal, with the added charm of deep mountain caverns that we also explored. Ever-present were hundreds of Vietnamese fishermen, navigating their fishing boat-home sampans. Occasionally a dock/market would present itself, where in partitioned wooden sectors different species of fish, crab and lobster would be displayed. Here, shoppers from other boats simply dip their nets into a subdivision, extract the live swimmer of choice, place it all in a plastic bag and just row away. Our meals, of course, were prepared and served on our junk. No question that the seafood was fresh.

THOUGHTS ON THIS AND THAT
* Paved roads are well kept in the cities; not so in the countryside, where potholes assume a significance all their own. They dominate the landscape, and country folk refer to them as “elephant nests.” It reminded me of the speed bumps in Tanzania, which the natives call “sleeping policemen.”

* A W.C. is called a “Happy House,” although truth be told some of them could best be called a “Happy Hole.” Happily for me, most of our experiences have been with westernized flush toilets. I’m not only happy, but also cheerful.

* Rice paddies form quilt-like patterns throughout the country. In this part of Vietnam, there are a lot of lowland areas, hence much flooding, which is good for the rice farmer and the fisherman. One popular fishing tool is the electric rod, which simply zaps the life out of the fish. The trick is to not inadvertently zap the life out of the fisherman. You know how this works: water … electricity …

* As mentioned previously, scooters and buses crowd the roads. Our bus driver and driver’s assistant operate an up-to-date, fully insured vehicle. Commuter buses, however, each operate with two drivers, plus three on-hand mechanics. Buses are so old that it could take many hours to complete a routine journey due to breakdowns. The mechanics are part of the program, handling maintenance logistics and inevitable downtime. It comes with the territory.

* In Japan, many subway commuters would don medical facemasks so as not to spread any illness they may be experiencing. It’s considered good manners, and is seen quite often. In Vietnam, the women riding their motor scooters all wear facemasks, but not to curb contagion. Here, a light complexion is considered the most beautiful, and women therefore try to keep as much of their face out of the sun as possible. I will say, however, that this program seems to work, for the women here are singularly beautiful to behold.

Next: Hue, Emperors and Eunuchs