On The Road Again

We’re on the move today from the coastal city of Nha Trang to the inland resort of Dalat, so with a few hours to kill on our motorbus I’ve pulled out the laptop for some bouncy observations. South Central Vietnam is gliding by, with the wavy shoreline of the South China Sea on my left and rows of rounded mountains receding into the dreamy distance on my right. I’ve enjoyed the bus portions of this travel, since the group is small in number (15 total), and we can all spread out with room to spare. It’s comfortable, air conditioned, and allows time to appreciate some serious people and water buffalo watching.

IN THE AIR AGAIN
In addition to buses, we’ve also taken a number of commuter air flights on this trip, and flying Vietnam Airlines demonstrates what control a governmental monopoly can exert. Fully packed flights are efficiently loaded and unloaded, and as soon as the last person enters a plane, the doors are shut and we’re off. Must maintain that schedule. Don’t worry about everyone occupying his or her seat or seatbelt. Plenty of time for that during take-off. I don’t think the FAA has much jurisdiction here.

WELCOME AMERICANS
We just drove through yellow blockhouse gates that used to be the entrance to the American installation at Cam Rahn Bay. I remember how significant this area was during the war. Now the gates serve to frame the highway. (Yesterday, while meandering around the shopping streets of Nha Trang, we came across a parked, and well-maintained, green U.S. Army jeep captured or perhaps abandoned at the end of the war.) Throughout our time north of what used to be the Demilitarized Zone, I wondered what, if any, degree of animosity might be exhibited towards us American tourists. Surprisingly, there has been none at all. Quite the opposite. English-speaking Viets in what used to be North Vietnam are eager to converse, learn about America and express pleasure about the results of our recent election. Tourism is still not the major industry for Vietnam, but it will be.

COMMUNISM
Politics in Vietnam is decidedly Communism-Lite. Although freedom of expression and assembly do not exist, there is a strong capitalistic bent to the philosophy of this country, and its people have opportunities unlike anything I expected. This is not North Korea. Although the state-run newspapers deliver highly slanted propaganda and thrilling news updates (“Commerce Commissioner Praises Four-Year Coal Production Projections”), the people can access the internet and are exposed to western news, including CNN. Wolf Blitzer is alive and well in Vietnam. I’ve been able to view the NY Times and Washington Post websites daily. I’m told that some sites are blocked, but I haven’t experienced this. As more development occurs, the people are going to demand more freedom, much like what was experienced in the eastern bloc countries. Case in point: the just-departed Nha Trang is a booming resort town. Our hotel was very upscale; on either side of us construction was underway for new Sheraton and Crowne Plaza high-rise complexes. These waterfront properties remind me of Miami Beach in its early development. Foreign investment from every quarter infuses the economy of Vietnam.

GONE FISHIN’
Yesterday we spent most of the day on the water and within fishing islands near Nha Trang. In addition to motorized launches, we traveled in small, conical boats that look like saucer-baskets. They accommodated two passengers plus two rowers. I was happy to take over the rowing, and can report that most of us made it to our destinations without mishap. Walking the fishing islands was more treacherous. Water from recent rains cascaded down narrow streets, often at ankle-level. Heavily populated, the men live their lives either fishing or preparing nets for the next assault. Children are everywhere, smiling and waving. The women spend their time around the home drawing brackish well water and collected rainwater, when they can get it. It’s a simple existence that seems to satisfy everyone.

NOT WASTING AWAY
I’ll close with some observations about our dining experiences, which have been great. Some favorites: Viet staples, such as veggies sautéed in a garlic sauce (even available for breakfast over fried rice and thin noodles); many varieties of crustaceans served with matching varieties of spicy fish sauce; chicken prepared with pineapple and curry; sweet and sour duck with pear-apple slices; spring rolls with shrimp and tofu; and, different types of light fish battered and served under lemon sauce. Yum. Tonight we had coq au vin at a French restaurant. (The French, you may recall, occupied this country until the mid 1950’s, and built much of this area.) Some of the culinary items available, but rejected, have included: country fried rat; BBQ dog (breed undetermined); boiled chicken embryo and a delectable fruit seen here called a durian, which the Viets advertise as “smells like shit; tastes like heaven.” Someone from Madison Avenue needs to work with these guys.


Next: Into the hills of South Central Vietnam