Sayonara To Tokyo

Three days of breezing around Tokyo have passed too quickly.  This is one terrific city, rivaling New York in its cosmopolitan, very upscale atmosphere.  It's very Times Square, with blazing colors and whirling activity, but everything is so clean and polite.  The populace is cheerful, if driven.  Work ethic is many notches above what we consider tolerable.  The folk seem to be focused, but courteous to the extreme.  On more that one occasion, someone came up to me on the street unsolicited, with an offer to help this tourist locate my destination.  Often the man or woman would not speak my language very well, but was most interested in communicating assistance to my satisfaction.  And each encounter would be finalized with a traditional deep bow.  Very different from other parts of the globe!

A FISH STORY

One memorable experience was a very early morning visit to the Tsukiji Fish Market.  It's said to be the largest in the world, and I won't debate it.  We walked endlessly through the wholesale and retail hangers of this vast emporium, and finally just gave up trying to see it all.  Thousands of merchants ply their very fresh wares, some in auction, most selling directly to eager buyers (who also number in the thousands).  Watching clever handlers slice thin layers of solidly frozen tuna, with large hatchets, was something to behold.  Had to have a fish lunch after that; we knew it was probably fresh.

VERY ANGRY THEATER

Kabuki has been a tradition for countless generations.  But to sit through several hours of heavy drama in an extremely foreign language, replete with many guttural grunts by the men playing men, squealing entreaties by the men playing women and the constant drone of a three string instrument requires much dedication.  Wisely, the marketers of this tradition offer one-hour slices of Kabuki, where the entire balcony can attend for just one of its many acts, thereby getting the flavor but not the indigestion.  I loved it.  Highly stylized and oddly moving, despite my total incomprehension of its dialogue.

REAL TEMPURA

Last night's dinner was a feast.  We spent the entire evening at a tiny traditional restaurant that served only tempura, offered by one chef at the center of a very small room.  There must have been about a dozen small courses, each one exceeding the previous one in delicacy and taste.  I'll probably never experience anything fried so lightly or deliciously.  And, of course, spending the evening trying to communicate properly, and follow the customs required by restaurant patrons, was amusing and fun.

ENJOY THE CRUSH

A final word, before I rush on board my flight to Bangkok.  The subway in Tokyo is remarkably efficient, incredibly clean and, in rush hour, amazingly tight.  This is a photo of the actual protocol by subway attendants as we boarded a train this morning.  Final boarders are helped into the car by the sardine police, who literally push the mob into the doors.  Many new friends were immediately made.  I think I may be engaged.

Next stop: Thailand